Campomoro, Porto Pollo and Olmeto: the Villages of the Valinco Gulf

Campomoro: wild Corsica at the end of the road

A village outside of time

Campomoro occupies a remarkable position at the southern tip of the Valinco Gulf. This hamlet of a few dozen houses, reached by a winding 17-kilometre road from Propriano, is Corsica's end of the world. Here the tarmac stops and only the coastal footpath continues southward, towards Tizzano and the utter wilderness of the shoreline.

The atmosphere in Campomoro is that of a Corsica untouched by mass tourism. A handful of granite houses, a tiny fishing harbour where brightly painted boats bob gently, two or three restaurants with tables at the water's edge, and above all a silence broken only by the wind and the waves.

The Genoese tower: an iconic landmark

The Genoese tower of Campomoro is the largest and best-preserved in all of Corsica. Built in 1586, it rises from a rocky promontory overlooking the beach and commands a full 360-degree view of the Valinco Gulf and the wild southern coast.

Standing 17 metres tall and surrounded by a star-shaped fortification wall (a rare feature in Corsica), the tower once served as a lookout against Barbary pirate raids. It is open for visits in summer and houses an exhibition on the history of the Genoese towers and Corsica's maritime life in the 16th and 17th centuries.

Seen from the sea during a boat trip to the calanques, the tower takes on an even more dramatic presence, perched on its rocky spur with the dark-green maquis as a backdrop.

What to do in Campomoro

• The coastal trail to Tizzano: 17 kilometres of shoreline path through maquis, deserted coves and granite boulder fields. One of the finest walks in Corsica, suitable as a day hike or a two-stage trip with a taxi return.
• Swimming: Campomoro beach offers crystal-clear water in a uniquely historic setting. The rocks on either side of the beach are ideal for snorkelling.
• Dining: two or three restaurants serve fish caught that same morning, gulf lobster and Corsican specialities. Book ahead in summer -- tables are limited.
• Wildlife spotting: the waters around Campomoro harbour exceptional biodiversity. Groupers, brown meagre and dentex populate the rocky seabed, while ospreys nest on the nearby cliffs.

Porto Pollo: the family-friendly seaside resort

Small-scale seaside charm

Sitting on the northern shore of the Valinco Gulf, Porto Pollo is the quintessential small resort. Free of the excesses of larger tourist destinations, this village retains a laid-back and genuine atmosphere that appeals to families and lovers of simplicity.

Porto Pollo revolves around its broad fine-sand beach, which slopes gently into the water for several hundred metres. The sea is shallow for a long way out, making it an ideal playground for children. The village itself consists of a few streets lined with restaurants, souvenir shops and water-sports equipment hire outlets.

What to do in Porto Pollo

• The beach: Porto Pollo's main beach is one of the most family-friendly in the Valinco. Lifeguards in summer; sun loungers and parasols available for hire.
• Water sports: kayaks, stand-up paddleboards, pedal boats and towed inflatables are available directly on the beach. A sailing school welcomes children from age 6.
• Cupabia beach: a 10-minute drive away, the stunning Cupabia beach offers a wilder setting for days when you want more tranquillity.
• Boat excursions: from Porto Pollo you can reach Propriano by sea, hugging the northern coast of the gulf -- a peaceful 30-minute cruise.
• Sunsets: Porto Pollo faces due west. The sunsets over the gulf, watched from the beach or from a restaurant terrace, are absolutely spectacular.

How to get there

Porto Pollo is 20 kilometres north of Propriano, via the coastal road through Serra-di-Ferro. The drive takes roughly 25 minutes and crosses magnificent scenery, with panoramic views of the gulf at every bend. Free car park behind the beach.

Olmeto: the balcony over the Valinco

A hillside village with character

Perched at 300 metres on a rocky spur, Olmeto dominates the Valinco Gulf with a panoramic view stretching from Porto Pollo to Campomoro. This mountain village is steeped in Corsican history: it is here that part of the action of "Colomba", Prosper Merimee's celebrated novella published in 1840, unfolds.

The cobbled lanes of Olmeto wind between granite houses with colourful shutters, vaulted passageways and vertiginous stairways. The parish church, with its typically Corsican square bell tower, anchors the village centre. Ancient plane trees shade the cafe terraces on the square, where time seems to stand still.

The legacy of Colomba

Olmeto is inseparable from the figure of Colomba Bartoli, who inspired Prosper Merimee's eponymous story. The Bartoli house, with its bricked-up windows (a sign of vendetta in Corsican tradition), can still be seen today. Interpretive panels around the village recount this tale of vengeance and honour that shaped the romantic image of Corsica in the 19th century.

What to do in Olmeto

• Village stroll: the lanes, vaulted passages and granite houses create a photogenic and authentic setting. Allow about an hour for a leisurely visit.
• The botanical trail: a waymarked route through the maquis with interpretive panels on Mediterranean plants. Easy and accessible to all.
• The Baracci hot springs: in the valley below Olmeto, the springs have been renowned since Roman times for their sulphurous healing waters.
• The panoramic viewpoint: from the main cafe terrace or the village belvedere, the view over the Valinco Gulf is one of the finest in the region.
• Local producers: Olmeto is home to cheesemakers, charcuterie producers and olive-oil pressers who welcome visitors for tastings.

How to get there

Olmeto is 8 kilometres from Propriano, roughly 15 minutes by car via the national road 196. The village is well signposted from the main road. Car park at the village entrance; from there you continue on foot through lanes too narrow for cars.

The three villages seen from the sea

The best way to grasp the geography of the Valinco Gulf and the position of these three villages is to view them from the water. On a boat trip from Propriano, the panorama unfolds in all its grandeur: Olmeto perched on its hillside, Porto Pollo stretched along its golden beach, and Campomoro at the world's end with its solitary tower planted on the cape.

Our boat excursions follow the coastline, letting you admire each village from an angle you could never see on land. The calanques between Campomoro and the Senetosa headland offer a particularly breathtaking natural spectacle, with granite cliffs plunging into turquoise waters.

Valinco village circuit: recommended itinerary

To discover all three villages in a single day, here is an optimised itinerary starting from Propriano:

1. Morning (9 a.m. - 11 a.m.) -- Campomoro: leave early to enjoy the cool of the morning. Visit the Genoese tower, walk the first 2 kilometres of the coastal trail for a taste of the landscape, and swim in the crystal-clear waters of the beach.
2. Lunch (12 p.m. - 2 p.m.) -- Campomoro or back to Propriano: the restaurants in Campomoro serve impossibly fresh fish. Or return to Propriano for a wider choice.
3. Early afternoon (2:30 p.m. - 4 p.m.) -- Olmeto: on the way back towards Propriano, make a detour to Olmeto. The shaded lanes are pleasant in the afternoon. Enjoy a coffee on the terrace overlooking the gulf.
4. Late afternoon (4:30 p.m. - 7 p.m.) -- Porto Pollo: round off the day with a swim at Porto Pollo's wide beach, followed by a sunset aperitif at one of the beach bars.

Practical tips for visiting the villages

• Fuel: fill up in Propriano before setting out -- there are no petrol stations in the villages.
• Roads: the roads to Campomoro and Porto Pollo are winding but well maintained. Allow 25 minutes for each journey.
• Restaurants: book ahead in July and August -- seating is limited in the villages.
• Footwear: wear comfortable closed-toe shoes for Olmeto (cobbles and stairs) and Campomoro (trail to the tower).
• Opening hours: the Campomoro tower is open all day in summer. Check times with the tourist office.

To round out your discovery of the Valinco, browse our complete guide to things to do in Propriano and the Valinco, as well as our selection of the best spots in the Valinco Gulf by boat.